Oaxaca in December: Christmas, New Year's & Noche de Rábanos

December in Oaxaca is the most culturally dense month of the year. While the rest of Mexico celebrates Christmas and New Year’s, Oaxaca layers on traditions found nowhere else: the Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes), massive Calendas processions with giant puppets and fireworks, and a Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) celebration that turns the entire city into an open-air festival.

If you visit Oaxaca once, make it December. The weather is near-perfect, the traditions are extraordinary, and the city vibrates with an energy that is simultaneously festive, spiritual, and deeply rooted in centuries of indigenous and Catholic cultural fusion. For help choosing the best season for your interests, see our when to visit Oaxaca guide.

December Weather: What to Expect

December falls in the middle of Oaxaca’s dry season. The weather is about as good as it gets.

Daytime temperatures: 24 to 28 C (75 to 82 F). Warm and sunny with clear skies most days.
Nighttime temperatures: 8 to 14 C (46 to 57 F). The evenings get surprisingly cool at 1,550 meters (5,085 feet) elevation. Bring a jacket or sweater for nighttime events.
Rain: Almost none. December is one of the driest months, with an average of one to two rain days for the entire month.
Sunlight: The days are shorter (sunset around 6:15 PM), but you get 10 to 11 hours of usable daylight.

For the coast (Puerto Escondido or Huatulco), December weather is warmer: 30 to 33 C (86 to 91 F) during the day, with warm nights and calm ocean conditions. For Puerto Escondido’s December specifically, see our Christmas on the beach guide.

The December Calendar: Event by Event

December 1-15: Posadas Begin and the City Prepares

The first half of December builds momentum toward the main events. The city is festive but not yet at peak intensity.

Posadas are nightly processions that reenact Mary and Joseph’s search for lodging in Bethlehem. In Oaxaca, neighborhoods organize their own posadas, which involve a procession through the streets, singing, candles, prayers at a designated house, and then a party with food and ponche (hot fruit punch spiked with sugarcane alcohol).

When: Most neighborhood posadas run from December 16 through December 24, but some communities start earlier.
How to join: Posadas are public. If you see a procession, you are welcome to walk along. At the destination house, food and drinks are typically offered to everyone, including strangers. The generosity is genuine — accept it.
What to expect: Singing of the traditional letania (litany), breaking of a pinata (star-shaped, representing the seven deadly sins), and distribution of aguinaldos (small bags of candy and fruit to children).

Market preparations: The Mercado de Abastos and Mercado Benito Juarez begin stocking December specialties: dried fruits for ponche, bunuelos (fried dough with sugar), cinnamon sticks, piloncillo (raw cane sugar), and the distinctive clay plates used for bunuelo service (see below). The markets become more crowded and more colorful throughout the month.

December 16: Calendas Season Intensifies

Calendas are Oaxaca’s signature processions, and while they happen year-round for weddings, saints’ days, and other celebrations, December brings the largest and most frequent ones.

A Calenda typically includes:

A marching band playing traditional Oaxacan sones (musical forms).
Mojigangas: Giant papier-mache puppets, often 3 to 4 meters (10 to 13 feet) tall, operated by dancers inside. They depict historical figures, saints, and fantastical characters.
Marmotas: Large lanterns made of woven bamboo and colored paper, carried on poles. When lit from within, they glow in the darkness.
Participants carrying candles, flowers, and incense.
Fireworks: Both the standard aerial kind and the more distinctive Oaxacan variety — castillos (towers of rotating fireworks) and toritos (bull-shaped frames loaded with fireworks that someone wears and runs through the crowd).

Where to see them: Calendas move through the centro historico streets, usually ending at a church or the Zocalo. You will hear them before you see them — follow the band music. From December 16 onward, multiple Calendas may be happening on any given evening.

Safety note about fireworks: The toritos and castillos involve live fireworks at close range. Keep a safe distance if you are uncomfortable with sparks. Locals are accustomed to standing remarkably close, but travelers should use their own judgment.

December 23: Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes)

This is Oaxaca’s most unusual tradition and one of the most distinctive cultural events in all of Mexico.

What it is: On the evening of December 23, artisans display elaborate sculptures carved from giant radishes in the Zocalo. The tradition dates to the colonial era, when Spanish friars encouraged indigenous farmers to carve radishes to attract customers to the Christmas market.

What you will see:

Radish sculptures: Oversized radishes (some weighing 3 kilograms / 6.6 pounds or more, specially cultivated for the event) carved into intricate scenes depicting nativity scenes, Oaxacan traditions like the Guelaguetza, historical events, and daily life. The detail is extraordinary given the material.
Totomoxtle figures: Sculptures made from dried corn husks, displayed alongside the radishes. These tend to be more delicate and pastoral.
Flor Inmortal arrangements: Displays made from a dried flower (everlasting flower) native to Oaxaca, arranged in elaborate scenes.

Competition: The radish carving is a formal competition organized by the municipal government. Prizes are awarded in multiple categories, and the rivalry is fierce. Artisans work on their pieces for weeks.

Practical information:

Location: The Zocalo (main plaza) in Oaxaca City.
Time: Displays are set up during the day and officially open to the public from 5:00 or 6:00 PM. The event runs until around 11:00 PM.
Cost: Free to attend.
Crowds: Enormous. The Noche de Rabanos draws thousands of spectators, and the lines to view the displays can be very long. Arrive early (by 4:30 PM) if you want a good position. Alternatively, come later in the evening (after 9:00 PM) when the first wave of visitors has passed.
Photography: Allowed and encouraged, but be prepared for crowded conditions and limited angles.

December 24: Nochebuena (Christmas Eve)

Nochebuena is the main Christmas celebration in Mexico — more significant than December 25th. In Oaxaca, the evening unfolds in stages.

The Bunuelo Tradition:

Before midnight, vendors set up tables throughout the centro historico, particularly around the churches and the Zocalo, and serve bunuelos — thin, crispy fried dough dusted with sugar and cinnamon, served on clay plates with a cup of hot chocolate or atole.

Here is the unique part: after eating your bunuelo, you smash the clay plate on the ground. The streets become covered in broken pottery shards. This tradition symbolizes breaking with the old year, and the crash of plates adds to the festive chaos.

Cost: A bunuelo with hot chocolate costs 40 to 80 MXN ($2.25 to $4.50 USD).
Where: Most concentrated around the Zocalo and the streets between Santo Domingo and the Cathedral. Virtually every block in the centro will have at least one bunuelo vendor.

Calenda de Nochebuena:

The largest Calenda of the year processes through the streets of the centro historico on the evening of December 24. This one involves virtually every parish church in the city sending its own procession, which eventually converge on the Zocalo.

Misa de Gallo (Midnight Mass):

At midnight, churches throughout the city hold Mass. The most atmospheric is at the Cathedral on the Zocalo or at Santo Domingo de Guzman. Non-Catholics are welcome to attend, though the churches will be standing-room only.

After midnight: Families return home for cena de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve dinner), which typically includes turkey, bacalao (salt cod in tomato sauce), romeritos (a wild green cooked with mole and shrimp), tamales, ponche, and atole. If you are staying at a guesthouse or with a local family, you may be invited to share this meal.

December 25: Christmas Day

Christmas Day itself is quieter than Nochebuena. It is a family day, and many businesses close. The streets are peaceful after the previous night’s festivities.

What to do on December 25:

Sleep in. You were probably out until 2:00 AM.
Walk the Zocalo, which will be decorated but tranquil.
Visit the Ethnobotanical Garden or a museum, some of which remain open.
Enjoy the relief of empty streets.

December 28: Dia de los Inocentes (Day of the Innocents)

Mexico’s equivalent of April Fools’ Day. Newspapers print fake stories, people play pranks, and if you lend someone money, they may not return it — by tradition, anything borrowed on December 28 does not have to be returned. Be aware if locals joke with you today.

December 31: Nochevieja (New Year’s Eve)

New Year’s Eve in Oaxaca is celebrated with less specific tradition than Nochebuena but with equal enthusiasm.

Traditions:

Wearing colored underwear: Yellow underwear is said to bring prosperity in the new year; red brings love. You will see vendors selling packs of colored underwear throughout the markets in the last days of December.
Eating 12 grapes at midnight: As the clock strikes twelve, eat one grape per toll and make a wish with each. Have your grapes ready.
Burning a mono de ano viejo: Some neighborhoods create an effigy (the “Old Year man”) from old clothes stuffed with firecrackers and newspapers, which is burned at midnight.

Where to celebrate:

The Zocalo: A crowd gathers for a countdown, fireworks, music, and dancing. This is the public celebration.
Restaurants and bars: Many restaurants offer special New Year’s Eve menus (cena de fin de ano) for 500 to 1,500 MXN ($28 to $84 USD) per person, often including live music. Reserve well in advance.
Hotel rooftops: Several hotels in the centro historico have rooftop bars or terraces that offer excellent views of the midnight fireworks over the city. Some host private events.

Practical note: Taxis and rideshare become scarce after midnight. If your hotel is within walking distance of the Zocalo, walk. If not, arrange transportation in advance.

January 1: New Year’s Day

Most businesses are closed. The streets are quiet. It is a recovery day. Some restaurants open for lunch service, and the Zocalo slowly comes back to life by afternoon.

Where to Stay in December

December is peak season in Oaxaca. Accommodation prices rise 30 to 60 percent above normal rates, and popular hotels sell out weeks or months in advance. For a general neighborhood guide, see our where to stay in Oaxaca guide.

Booking timeline:

Book by September for the best selection and prices.
By November, the most popular hotels in the centro historico will be full.
Last minute (December itself): You will still find rooms, but options will be limited and prices higher.

Price ranges in December:

Type	Normal Season (MXN)	December (MXN)	December (USD)
Hostel dorm	200 - 350	300 - 500	$17 - $28
Budget hotel	500 - 900	800 - 1,400	$45 - $78
Mid-range hotel	1,200 - 2,000	1,800 - 3,500	$100 - $196
Boutique hotel	2,500 - 4,500	4,000 - 7,000	$224 - $392

Where to stay: The centro historico is the best base for December events, since most Calendas, the Noche de Rabanos, and Nochebuena celebrations are concentrated there. The neighborhoods of Jalatlaco and Xochimilco are close alternatives with slightly lower prices and more residential character.

What to Eat in December

December brings seasonal foods that are available only during this period.

Bunuelos: Thin fried dough with sugar. Served at street stands throughout the month, but the main tradition is on Nochebuena. Cost: 30 to 60 MXN ($1.70 to $3.40 USD) per plate.
Ponche Navideño: Hot fruit punch made with sugarcane, guava, tejocote (a small, tart fruit), cinnamon, tamarind, and prune. The adult version is spiked with mezcal or sugarcane aguardiente. Sold at stands and posadas.
Tamales: Available year-round but produced in massive quantities for the holidays. Oaxacan tamales are wrapped in banana leaf (not corn husk) and filled with mole, chicken, pork, or rajas (chili strips). Cost: 20 to 40 MXN ($1.12 to $2.25 USD) each.
Romeritos: A wild green vegetable cooked with mole, dried shrimp, and nopales (cactus paddle). Specific to the Christmas season.
Bacalao a la Vizcaina: Salt cod cooked in a tomato sauce with olives, capers, and peppers. A holiday tradition across Mexico.
Chocolate caliente: Hot chocolate made with Oaxacan chocolate, hand-whisked with a molinillo (wooden whisk). Perfect for cold December evenings. For more on Oaxacan chocolate, see our chocolate guide.

Practical Tips for Visiting in December

Transportation

Book flights early. December is the busiest month for the Oaxaca airport (OAX). Prices can double compared to shoulder season. For best fares, book by October.
Airport transfers: Taxis from the airport cost 150 to 250 MXN ($8.40 to $14 USD) to the centro. Pre-arranged shuttles are slightly cheaper.
Getting around the city: Walking is the best option for December events, since streets in the centro are frequently closed for processions. Taxis become difficult to find during major events.

Crowds

December, particularly December 23-31, is the most crowded period of the year in Oaxaca City. The Zocalo, the Adoquin at Santo Domingo, and the markets will be packed. This is part of the experience — the energy of the crowds is integral to the celebrations — but plan accordingly:

Visit museums and archaeological sites in the morning before crowds build.
Eat at off-peak hours (lunch before 1:00 PM, dinner before 7:00 PM).
Carry your belongings securely. Pickpocketing increases with crowd density.

What to Pack

A warm layer: December nights are genuinely cold by Oaxacan standards. A fleece, wool sweater, or light down jacket is essential for evening events.
Comfortable walking shoes: You will walk extensively, often on cobblestones and frequently in crowds.
Earplugs: Between fireworks, bands, and church bells, December nights are loud. Earplugs help if you are a light sleeper.
A small backpack or crossbody bag: Keeps your hands free during processions and protects your valuables.
Camera with low-light capability: The best moments — Calendas, Nochebuena, Noche de Rabanos — happen at night. Phone cameras often struggle in these conditions.

Money

ATMs: Withdraw cash before December 23. ATM lines become long, and some machines run out of cash during peak days.
Tipping: During the holidays, tips are especially appreciated. The standard is 10 to 15 percent at restaurants, 10 to 20 MXN ($0.56 to $1.12 USD) per bag for hotel porters.

Combining Oaxaca City and the Coast

Many December visitors split their time between Oaxaca City (for the cultural events) and the coast (for beach relaxation after the festivities).

Suggested itinerary:

December 22-26: Oaxaca City for Noche de Rabanos (23rd), Nochebuena (24th), and a recovery day (25th).
December 26-31: Coast (Puerto Escondido or Huatulco) for beach, sun, and a coastal New Year’s Eve.

Getting between the city and coast takes a full day by bus (6-7 hours) or one hour by plane. See our Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido transport guide for detailed options.

Final Thoughts

December in Oaxaca is not a “holiday getaway.” It is an immersion in a living culture that has been celebrating this month in its own extraordinary way for centuries. The Noche de Rabanos is unlike anything else on the planet. The Calendas fill the streets with music, light, and giant puppets. Nochebuena turns the entire city into a communal celebration where strangers share bunuelos and break plates together.

It is crowded, loud, cold at night, and impossible to sleep through. It is also, without question, the best time to understand what makes Oaxaca unlike anywhere else in Mexico — or the world. For a broader perspective on Oaxacan traditions and festivals, explore our complete festival guide.